Nairn is an iconic Scottish golf club; it has a Championship and 9 hole course. Here’s a link to the Club’s website: http://www.nairngolfclub.co.uk . Nairn was a destination for my family vacations when I was a kid growing up in Scotland. I seem to recall great beaches and fantastic weather: I guess when you are a 5 year old things look and feel a lot different to reality. The course has been on my “to do” list and in July 2025, I finally did it!
Nairn has a storied history: The Nairn Golf Club had no humble origin. Masterminded in 1887 by the Edinburgh born advocate, Robert Finlay, like him the golf course was to grow immensely in stature. As for Finlay, the local MP, he rose to become a Viscount after presiding for three years as Britain’s Lord Chancellor, and remained ever faithful to Nairn.
Finlay was astute. He persuaded his influential London friends to join as members and on taking forward the initial design of Archie Simpson, Professional and Keeper of the Green at Royal Aberdeen, he called upon that ”Grand Old Man” of golf, ”Old Tom Morris”. Old Tom totally revised the course and extended it westward over the Earl of Cawdor’s property.
Twenty years on, the five times Open Champion James Braid (and the first to break 70 here with a 69 in 1901) was altering tees and bunkers before creating new greens of singular subtlety. Then, in 1920, new holes at Delnies were designed by the irrepressible Ben Sayers of North Berwick before, once more, Braid returned to contribute his expertise. Not withstanding discreet improvements fifty years ago by the esteemed architect C. K. Cotton, and some judicious lengthening prior to the Walker Cup contest in 1999, Nairn nevertheless remains substantially the links course that James Braid knew and admired so well.
Highland Fling: Golfing Adventure in Scotland – July 2025
Eight friends, all connected through our shared passion for golf and (mostly) members of Winged Foot Golf Club, traveled to the breathtaking Highlands of Scotland. This trip was the latest in a series of annual excursions, each destination offering its own unique charm and challenging courses: from my backyard of East Lothian’s “Golf Coast,” to the golf heritage of the Kingdom of Fife, and more recently the coastal beauty of Ayrshire in 2024, our travels have been filled with unforgettable experiences.
For our trip in July 2025, we ventured northwards, to tackle some of Scotland's most revered golf courses including iconic names like Royal Dornoch and (the) Nairn. Our journey would embrace the stunning landscapes and rich history of the counties of Sutherland, Ross and Cromarty, Inverness, and Nairn.
“Dornoch” in fact in Gaelic means “pebbly place”—not Pebble Beach—but apparently based on hand-sized stones that might have been used as weapons. The Castle and Cathedral were built in the 13th century. The town comprises some 1,500 people, and with the golf course so prominent and being a key point on the (North Coast 500) route, it’s perhaps no surprise that tourism is the largest business in the area.
The Dornoch area holds special memories for me as I recall family vacations spent camping on Embo beach during my childhood. Incredibly, the hotel/restaurant "Grannies Healan’ Hame” is still there!
The area is noteworthy also as the then Duke of Sutherland (Sutherland) initiated mass deportations by clearing the lands of farmers to be replaced by more profitable sheep. Many Scots emigrated from the mid-18th century to The States and Canada, as well as South America, Australia, and New Zealand—and their influence in the development of these countries has been impressive. In addition, the stage was set for the extension of British influence and the creation of the Empire, as French support for the Jacobite Charles Edward Stuart was curtailed. Culloden was also the last battle on British soil. The end of the fighting also encouraged the Scottish Enlightenment and the amazing outpouring of scientific and economic thinking and discovery. There’s a terrific book by Arthur Herman which details some of the impacts on modern society stemming from some amazing Scottish people from this period.
Ok, those days are over now and in the past they must remain—so what about this trip?
The Journey North:
My journey north began after The Scottish Open at Renaissance—where last year’s winner was Scotland’s own Bob McIntyre. A very popular winner, as you might imagine, who later made a significant contribution to the Ryder Cup win in Italy. This year, it was the relatively unknown Chris Gutterup who came out ahead of Rory McIlroy. Gutterup shot an incredible 61 in round two; he would finish third in The Open at Port Rush the following week.
More importantly, however, I left right after celebrating my twin granddaughters Maisie and Reagan’s second birthday party. There can be surely no better way to prepare for a golf trip than loading up on kids’ party food and being in the petri dish atmosphere with all those little guys running around with coughs and runny noses. All that gym work seen on “Full Swing” seems so overrated!
The 200-mile drive to Dornoch is superb. The route takes you across the (relatively new) majestic Forth Bridge and reveals Scotland's natural beauty through charming towns and the breathtaking vistas of the Spey Valley. From Edinburgh, it’s roughly 100 miles to where the Highlands begin, just after Pitlochry. A further 50 miles or so and you arrive in the Cairngorms, Scotland’s ski area, with places like Aviemore providing more marvelous scenic aspects to the trip.
The approach to Dornoch is particularly striking; you travel over three bridges—over the Moray Firth, next the Cromarty Firth, and finally the Dornoch Firth. I was very fortunate in that both the sun and the tides were out, highlighting the beauty of this part of the Scottish coastline.
You can fly into Inverness from London or the Continent or Dublin, but there is something awfully nice about that drive up through central Scotland. If you have the time, I might suggest it’s a pretty good way to get acclimatised to the country.
Golf Courses Played (and Rankings):
Royal Dornoch (4)
Cabot Highlands (8)
Nairn (20)
Brora (28)
Golspie (63)
Fortrose & Rosemarkie (70)
Tain (82)
Day One: Fortrose & Rosemarkie – A Storied Classic on the Chanonry Peninsula
The journey started at the historic Fortrose & Rosemarkie Golf Club, perched on the slender Chanonry Peninsula with sweeping vistas of the Moray Firth. A warm Highland welcome from club secretary Mike MacDonald—himself a symbol of the club’s storied lineage—set the perfect tone. The course, ranked as the 15th oldest club in the world with documented play since 1702, radiates authenticity. Reimagined by James Braid in 1932 and later honored as Scotland’s Best Golf Course/Venue (2024), its signature is a tapestry of narrow, gorse-flanked fairways, pot bunkers, and small, springy greens.
Playing here is to dance with the elements: the ever-present Scottish crosswinds test every shot while dolphins often grace the waters nearby. Despite its modest 6,085 yards, the course requests precision more than power—a challenge made friendlier by gentle hospitality and immaculate conditioning. Calm weather gifted us a benevolent day, but locals reminded us how brisk winds can render even short par threes into bruising tests. An ideal start—full of character, fun, and charm, and highly recommended for any Highland itinerary.
Day One (cont'd): Nairn – Championship Links with Historic Depth
Nairn, affectionately known as “The Nairn” ia just 15 minutes from Inverness, and is steeped in history, with championship golf played here for over 130 years.
Founded in 1887 by Robert B. Finlay, the course has been shaped by legendary architects including Old Tom Morris, James Braid, and Ben Sayers. Redesigned by Morris in 1890, Nairn features some of the best seaside holes in Scotland and is known for its exceptional greens and classic out-and-back links layout. The course has played host to major tournaments such as the Walker Cup, Curtis Cup, Amateur Championship, and Women’s Amateur Championship, confirming its place among Scotland’s elite.
Nairn’s layout makes full use of its Moray Firth setting. The first seven holes cling tightly to the coastline, offering spectacular views but also posing serious challenges when winds rise. Every hole showcases either the Moray Firth or the Black Isle as a constant and dramatic backdrop.
From the tee, many fairways appear deceptively narrow due to mature gorse and subtle elevation changes, creating an optical illusion that challenges confidence and accuracy. The fairways here are among the most undulating we encountered on the trip. The green complexes are among the most demanding in the Highlands—full of undulations, run-offs, and cleverly concealed bunkers. Precision and touch are required on almost every approach.
The club maintains a sense of tradition while providing excellent facilities: a stylish clubhouse with dining overlooking the 18th, a pro shop, extensive practice areas, and a full nine-hole course—the Cameron Course—for warm-up or casual play. The pro shop is a bit limited, and is missing out on revenues by closing so early.
Notable Holes & Playing Highlights. 3rd Hole: A par four that hugs the coast before doglegging to a raised, well-defended green—the fairway looks tight, with bunkers and natural mounding playing tricks on your depth perception. Hole 9 – "Icehouse": This par four draws you toward the historic ice house where local fishermen once stored their catch, providing a tangible link to the area’s maritime heritage. 13th Hole – "Crown": An outstanding challenge off the tee, this hole requires an accurate, lengthy drive and a precise shot to an elevated, undulating green. It's both visually superb and tactically demanding. 14th Hole – "Kopjes": perhaps the signature par three, this hole plays from the highest point on the course to a green fronted by bunkers, with expansive views of the Moray Firth as your backdrop. The elevation change and crosswinds make club selection tricky—a par here is a real achievement.15th Hole – "Sutors": Another standout par three returning toward the coast, contrasting beautifully with the previous hole’s inland orientation.
Nairn Golf Club is an authentic Championship links, delivering challenge, beauty, and history in equal measure. The undulations of both fairways and greens set it apart from many Highland courses, demanding creativity and accuracy throughout the round. From the deceptive looks off the tee to iconic holes like "Icehouse" the course provides a first-class experience. Even in friendly weather, the layout offered memorable and rewarding golf—an absolute treat, and a must-play for anyone venturing to the North of Scotland
Day One: Fortrose & Rosemarkie – A Storied Classic on the Chanonry Peninsula
The journey started at the historic Fortrose & Rosemarkie Golf Club, perched on the slender Chanonry Peninsula with sweeping vistas of the Moray Firth. A warm Highland welcome from club secretary Mike MacDonald—himself a symbol of the club’s storied lineage—set the perfect tone. The course, ranked as the 15th oldest club in the world with documented play since 1702, radiates authenticity. Reimagined by James Braid in 1932 and later honored as Scotland’s Best Golf Course/Venue (2024), its signature is a tapestry of narrow, gorse-flanked fairways, pot bunkers, and small, springy greens.
Playing here is to dance with the elements: the ever-present Scottish crosswinds test every shot while dolphins often grace the waters nearby. Despite its modest 6,085 yards, the course requests precision more than power—a challenge made friendlier by gentle hospitality and immaculate conditioning. Calm weather gifted us a benevolent day, but locals reminded us how brisk winds can render even short par threes into bruising tests. An ideal start—full of character, fun, and charm, and highly recommended for any Highland itinerary.
Day Two: Brora – Quirky Tradition Amid Highland Ruggedness
Brora is a paradox: an old-school links set in a town with a history of coal mining and electricity firsts. Designed by Braid in 1924 across 194 rugged acres, it delivers memorable coastal views—but also some unusual hazards. Sheep graze freely and low-voltage electric fences ring every green, keeping livestock (and maybe golfers) respectfully at bay.
The layout follows Kintradwell Bay outward, then returns along croft land with fairways that can be patchy or rough. The day’s wind brought a bracing Scottish test and enforced the need for local knowledge on blind approaches and sloped greens. Despite a friendly clubhouse, Brora’s challenging conditions—intrusive stock fences, unpredictable turf, severe slopes—made for a frustrating round. While some cherish its ramshackle charm, for me it was a test of patience more than of skill.
Day Three: Tain – Old Tom’s Northern Jewel
Historic Tain Golf Club comes framed by the gentle sweep of the Dornoch Firth, just 40 minutes north of Inverness. Designed in 1890 by Old Tom Morris, the course retains many original features and delivers a blend of links and heathland character. The routing begins gently but comes to life on the inward nine, especially the 11th hole “Alps” and the iconic 17th “Black Bridge”—one of Morris’s greatest par threes with a fairway-crossing river adding drama.
Course conditions were mixed: early holes suffered from wear, but the key stretches shone with variety and challenge. Evolving weather brought light winds and a sense of tranquility unique to this region, occasionally underlined by the roar of RAF jets from Lossiemouth overhead. Tain is high on local hospitality, big on history, and offers just enough golf drama to be a worthy Old Tom pilgrimage.
Day Four and Five: Royal Dornoch – The Crown Jewel
Playing Royal Dornoch is the golf trip’s high note—a spellbinding masterpiece regularly ranking among the best in the world. Its history runs deep: the current 18-hole design stems from Old Tom Morris and John Sutherland’s touch, with legends like Donald Ross and Tom Watson leaving their imprint on club lore.
Set across a sprawling links amphitheater with golden gorse and glinting firth waters, Dornoch’s holes all bring unique strategic charm—none more so than the signature “Foxy” (14th), a bunkerless par four demanding brilliance from tee to green. Sloping, elevated greens throughout challenge even the best short games. The course was in pristine condition and every shot was as inspiring as it was exacting.
A day at Dornoch is more than a round—it’s an immersion: history, camaraderie, and Highland hospitality interwoven in an unforgettable tapestry. For any golf lover, this is a pilgrimage to savor.
Day Six: Golspie – The Highlands’ Hidden Gem
Nestled between the Dornoch Firth and Ben Bhraggie, Golspie Golf Club offers a playful medley of links, heathland, and parkland holes—a remarkable diversity on a modest plot. The character imparted by James Braid’s 1920s redesign still thrives: undulating fairways, prime seaside holes, and some of the Highlands’ truest-rolling greens.
The round transitions from heath to true links near the shore, featuring memorable holes like the par-5 4th clinging to the beach and the back-to-back par threes at 16 and 17 that test both nerves and ball-striking. Golspie punches above its weight in both challenge and enjoyment; it’s a course sporting affection, authenticity, and a warmth echoed in its welcoming clubhouse.
Day Seven: Cabot Highlands – Modern Grandeur on the Moray Firth
The finale at Cabot Highlands (formerly Castle Stuart) delivered a stylish modern counterpoint to the ancient links. Designed by Hanse and Parsinen and opened in 2009, the course sprawls along the Moray Firth using elevation, dramatic mounding, and wide fairways to create both a spectacle and a welcoming layout for all handicaps.
Highlights abound: cliff-top tee shots, risk-reward options, and world-class short holes like the water-spanning 11th. Exceptional greens and clever routing ensure seclusion and visual drama on every swing. Clubhouse comfort and caddie service are exemplary—recalling hospitality as memorable as the golf itself. Plans for the Tom Doak-designed Old Petty course promise even more world-class golf soon.
Cabot Highlands is excellent, though purists may find its modernity less enchanting than the likes of Dornoch or Golspie. Still, its superb conditioning, beautiful setting, and accessibility make it an essential stop on any Highland golf trip.
Conclusion
The Highland experience is truly unforgettable. Royal Dornoch stands out and is a sensational course that should be on everyone’s bucket list; Tom Watson himself described it as a “natural masterpiece.” Beyond such a well-known course lie hidden gems such as Golspie and Fortrose that make for a really complete Scottish golfing experience.
Scotland’s golf regions each have their stars—Fife and St Andrews, East Lothian around Gullane, Ayrshire with Prestwick and Turnberry, and finally the Highlands, anchored by Royal Dornoch. A golfing trip through each area could easily take two delightful weeks.
Trip Organization & Practical Details
Dining Highlights
Dornoch Castle Hotel – The Vault
I managed to book The Vault, a wonderful private dining area housed in the former dungeon of the castle. It was the perfect setting to conduct our usual end-of-season awards ceremony. Although Ben H, who normally runs this tradition, missed the trip this year, we celebrated with multiple toasts in his honor. The Vault seats up to approximately 10 people. The service was excellent, and the food was superb: starting with a charcuterie board, followed by steak with vegetables, and finishing with a very nice dessert.
Highland Spice, Dornoch
Skeptical about non-city curry houses, I was pleasantly surprised by a hearty chicken tikka and fresh naan offered at reasonable prices.
Luigi’s, Dornoch
This cozy Italian restaurant impressed with a perfectly creamy burrata starter and a halibut main course that reflected a kitchen of high standards. Not cheap, but worth it for quality food and a good wine list.
Marine Hotel, Brora
Located just steps from the golf course, we dined here after a windswept round. The maître d’, a South African by way of Scotland, helped us navigate the menu. My ribeye steak was excellent, and the service matched the food. I would thoroughly recommend this hotel. Although I didn’t see the rooms, I expect them to match the high standard of the dining experience.
Nairn Golf Club
Set overlooking the 1st and 18th holes of the golf course, the club offers pleasant dining with quite good food. However, the service level could have been improved significantly.
Royal Dornoch Golf Club Clubhouse Dining
Offers informal dining with spectacular views overlooking the 1st Tee of the Championship Course and the Dornoch Firth. Their menu emphasizes locally sourced, freshly prepared dishes celebrating the Highland larder. Service could be better.
Trip Organization & Practical Details
Accommodation
We stayed in self-catering apartments at The Royal Dornoch Hotel. Amy, who was terrific, arranged most of the golf and accommodation for our group.
Each apartment comprised two bedrooms—one with an ensuite—and a large, open-plan kitchen, dining, and lounge area. They were very well appointed and equipped with modern appliances, including a washer-dryer, cooker, hob, fridge, and freezer. The generous living spaces were perfect for relaxing after a day on the links.
Booking through the Royal Dornoch Hotel was hassle-free, thanks to the cheerful and efficient staff who also reserved our tee times—a huge help.
While the apartments were excellent, the main hotel building itself showed signs of wear: chipped paint, tired wallpaper, and indifferent restaurant service somewhat detracted from the overall experience. For comfort and peace of mind on a golf trip, I would recommend choosing these apartments over the main hotel accommodations.The main hotel felt dated, with tired decor and average restaurant service, but the apartments were excellent.
Transport
Amy at the Royal Dornoch Hotel provided me with the contact details for David Purvis, and I would highly recommend his services. David proved to be an incredibly reliable driver with excellent local knowledge. Always punctual, professional, and easy to communicate with, he made getting to and from the various courses and dining spots simple and stress-free. Whether you're coordinating group travel, airport transfers, or day trips across the Highlands, David is a great choice for anyone visiting the area and wanting dependable, friendly transport services from a true local expert.
Planning Tools
Highland Golf was an outstanding resource describing nearly 30 courses.
VisitScotland has a helpful website that provides lots of useful information on the area, places to stay, and things to do. In fact, the history of the Highlands is pretty interesting, as events in the 18th century had global ramifications which influence us today. Within Scotland, the Clan system collapsed and the region saw the imposition of what is called “the clearances”—genocide in another way—after the Battle of Culloden in April 1746 ended the Jacobite rebellion. The House of Hanover—the current King’s family—was restored.
Slight Detours
For a fun morning or afternoon excursion, it’s possible to take a very small ferry from Nigg across to Cromarty. The ferry is tiny, so I would strongly advise not taking your car if it is an SUV or large vehicle, as you will have to reverse your vehicle off the ferry upon arrival.
Cromarty itself is a delightful little town with a charming array of restaurants, galleries, and shops. One highlight is Soutar Creek, which was closed when we visited but is reputedly well worth a visit. The harbor area is picturesque, and a very good coffee shop right at the waterfront provides a pleasant spot to relax and watch the boats.
If you find yourself in the Tain area, I recommend a visit to Tain Pottery, which produces absolutely beautiful pottery, showcasing local craftsmanship. Additionally, the nearby Glenmorangie Distillery offers fascinating tours. We enjoyed a very nice afternoon there—it’s a perfect way to experience one of Scotland’s famous whisky houses close to the golfing action.