Highland Fling: Golfing Adventure in Scotland – July 2025
Eight friends, all connected through our shared passion for golf and (mostly) members of Winged Foot Golf Club, traveled to the breathtaking Highlands of Scotland. This trip was the latest in a series of annual excursions, each destination offering its own unique charm and challenging courses: from my backyard of East Lothian’s “Golf Coast,” to the golf heritage of the Kingdom of Fife, and more recently the coastal beauty of Ayrshire in 2024, our travels have been filled with unforgettable experiences.
For our trip in July 2025, we ventured northwards, to tackle some of Scotland's most revered golf courses including iconic names like Royal Dornoch and (the) Nairn. Our journey would embrace the stunning landscapes and rich history of the counties of Sutherland, Ross and Cromarty, Inverness, and Nairn.
“Dornoch” in fact in Gaelic means “pebbly place”—not Pebble Beach—but apparently based on hand-sized stones that might have been used as weapons. The Castle and Cathedral were built in the 13th century. The town comprises some 1,500 people, and with the golf course so prominent and being a key point on the (North Coast 500) route, it’s perhaps no surprise that tourism is the largest business in the area.
The Dornoch area holds special memories for me as I recall family vacations spent camping on Embo beach during my childhood. Incredibly, the hotel/restaurant "Grannies Healan’ Hame” is still there!
VisitScotland has a helpful website that provides lots of useful information on the area, places to stay, and things to do. In fact, the history of the Highlands is pretty interesting, as events in the 18th century had global ramifications which influence us today. Within Scotland, the Clan system collapsed and the region saw the imposition of what is called “the clearances”—genocide in another way—after the Battle of Culloden in April 1746 ended the Jacobite rebellion. The House of Hanover—the current King’s family—was restored.
The area is noteworthy also as the then Duke of Sutherland (Sutherland) initiated mass deportations by clearing the lands of farmers to be replaced by more profitable sheep. Many Scots emigrated from the mid-18th century to The States and Canada, as well as South America, Australia, and New Zealand—and their influence in the development of these countries has been impressive. In addition, the stage was set for the extension of British influence and the creation of the Empire, as French support for the Jacobite Charles Edward Stuart was curtailed. Culloden was also the last battle on British soil. The end of the fighting also encouraged the Scottish Enlightenment and the amazing outpouring of scientific and economic thinking and discovery. There’s a terrific book by Arthur Herman which details some of the impacts on modern society stemming from some amazing Scottish people from this period.
Ok, those days are over now and in the past they must remain—so what about this trip?
The Journey North:
My journey north began after The Scottish Open at Renaissance—where last year’s winner was Scotland’s own Bob McIntyre. A very popular winner, as you might imagine, who later made a significant contribution to the Ryder Cup win in Italy. This year, it was the relatively unknown Chris Gutterup who came out ahead of Rory McIlroy. Gutterup shot an incredible 61 in round two; he would finish third in The Open at Port Rush the following week.
More importantly, however, I left right after celebrating my twin granddaughters Maisie and Reagan’s second birthday party. There can be surely no better way to prepare for a golf trip than loading up on kids’ party food and being in the petri dish atmosphere with all those little guys running around with coughs and runny noses. All that gym work seen on “Full Swing” seems so overrated!
The 200-mile drive to Dornoch is superb. The route takes you across the (relatively new) majestic Forth Bridge and reveals Scotland's natural beauty through charming towns and the breathtaking vistas of the Spey Valley. From Edinburgh, it’s roughly 100 miles to where the Highlands begin, just after Pitlochry. A further 50 miles or so and you arrive in the Cairngorms, Scotland’s ski area, with places like Aviemore providing more marvelous scenic aspects to the trip.
The approach to Dornoch is particularly striking; you travel over three bridges—over the Moray Firth, next the Cromarty Firth, and finally the Dornoch Firth. I was very fortunate in that both the sun and the tides were out, highlighting the beauty of this part of the Scottish coastline. You can fly into Inverness from London or the Continent or Dublin, but there is something awfully nice about that drive up through central Scotland. If you have the time, I might suggest it’s a pretty good way to get acclimatised to the country.
Golf Courses Played (and Rankings):
Royal Dornoch (4)
Cabot Highlands (8)
Nairn (20)
Brora (28)
Golspie (63)
Fortrose & Rosemarkie (70)
Tain (82)
Day One: Fortrose & Rosemarkie – Classic Start on the Chanonry Peninsula
Fortrose & Rosemarkie Golf Club
Our trip kicked off with a 36-hole marathon for four of us, starting at Fortrose & Rosemarkie Golf Club, located on the slender Chanonry Peninsula reaching into the Moray Firth. The club secretary, Mike MacDonald, greeted us warmly, sharing his deep family heritage with the club and his impressive +4 handicap. Many members, including Mike, caddie for guests — a delightful local touch rarely seen outside Scotland.
JC, me, Dave T and Jim D’A
Fortrose & Rosemarkie is remarkable as the 15th oldest recorded golf club in the world, with documented golf played on its links since 1702. The club itself was founded in 1888, and the course evolved, extending to 18 holes by 1924. The early game on these lands was informal—originally two holes cut by the Kennedy family in the late 19th century near where the clubhouse now stands, with visiting officers rowing across from Fort George to play. You get a nice view of the two peninsulas from Cabot Highlands.
By 1932, the legendary James Braid was invited to redesign the course, laying the foundations of the current layout. The club has endured through two World Wars, during which play was suspended and the clubhouse repurposed, but its character remains authentic and vibrant.
Located only 20 minutes from Inverness, the course enjoys stunning views across the Moray Firth opposite Fort George. The links terrain is classic: narrow fairways protected by abundant gorse, small undulating greens, and strategic pot bunkers at every turn. Although it is a relatively short par 71 measuring 6,085 yards, the course tests every aspect of a golfer’s game, especially with the ever-present Scottish crosswinds swirling over the peninsula.
The first hole, a straightforward par four with the water on your left, eases one in gently. Beach rock, trucked in after past flooding, attests to the course’s vulnerability to nature. We were blessed with calm, sunny conditions—making it tricky to judge how daunting the relentless winds can be. On windy days, Mike told us some par threes might require anything from a long iron to a driver.
The narrow fairways and compact greens create true demands for accuracy. Most greens are subtle and flat but expect a hefty slope here and there. The fourth requires a thoughtful, three-shot approach—you need both accuracy off the tee and smart placement to set up a small, protected green. The sixth hole runs along the left edge of the peninsula, delivering sweeping westward views. The proximity of some greens and tees (nowhere more so than the seventh) is a testament to the old-world links design, where space is at a premium.
Weather, as ever in Scotland, puts on a show: in our case warm and windless at the outset but quickly shrouded in coastal haze before clearing again by the 14th. The back nine played a touch shorter, with holes like nine, ten, twelve, and thirteen requiring finely judged hybrids or long irons—ambitious three-woods risked trouble. Seventeen is a stern par three with a tiny landing zone leading to a straightforward pitch—if you find the spot. The closing hole, 211 yards from the whites, can call for anything from iron to driver, depending on the wind.
Other highlights are the 3rd through 6th holes, famed not only for their golfing challenge but also as prime dolphin-watching spots — the local pods often dancing in the waters of the Firth as you play.
The course is celebrated for its fun and engaging nature, ranked in the Top 30 “Fun Golf Courses” in Great Britain and Ireland, and recently honored as Scotland’s Best Golf Course/Venue in the Scottish Golf Tourism Awards (2024).
The clubhouse provides a welcoming atmosphere, with charming facilities and a strong sense of community. The course conditions on the day of our play were excellent: springy fairways and well-maintained greens.
All told, Fortrose & Rosemarkie is a delight. It rewards accuracy, offers a fair challenge, and—crucially—makes it possible to score well. I signed for three birdies and a 74, convinced I’d have threatened 70 with just a little more course knowledge. Conditions the day we played were excellent: fairways springy and true, greens in superb shape. Fore-caddying from Mike was invaluable—a model of the service and companionship that elevates Scottish golf.
In short, an ideal start to the trip: a well-conditioned, characterful links with plenty of charm and a distinct feel. Highly recommended for anyone piecing together a Highland itinerary.
Day One (cont’d): Nairn – Championship Heritage by the Sea
“The Nairn” offers 130 years of championship tradition just 15 minutes from Inverness. Designed by legends like Old Tom Morris and James Braid, this course hosts the Walker and Curtis Cups among other storied tournaments. Nairn features out-and-back links routing, with the opening seven holes hugging a dramatic coastline—each shaped by undulating fairways, deep bunkers, and some of the most challenging green complexes in Scotland.
Standout holes include the coastal dogleg 3rd, the icehouse-framed 9th, and the majestic, elevated 14th. The sea looms as both beauty and hazard, its presence felt on nearly every shot. Facilities blend modern luxury with old-school tradition; from panoramic dining to a nine-hole warm-up course. The links demand accuracy and imagination, rewarding creative iron play and patience in the wind. A quintessential championship test—beautiful, historic, and immensely rewarding for all who venture north.
Day Two: Brora – Quirky Tradition Amid Highland Ruggedness
Brora is a paradox: an old-school links set in a town with a history of coal mining and electricity firsts. Designed by Braid in 1924 across 194 rugged acres, it delivers memorable coastal views—but also some unusual hazards. Sheep graze freely and low-voltage electric fences ring every green, keeping livestock (and maybe golfers) respectfully at bay.
The layout follows Kintradwell Bay outward, then returns along croft land with fairways that can be patchy or rough. The day’s wind brought a bracing Scottish test and enforced the need for local knowledge on blind approaches and sloped greens. Despite a friendly clubhouse, Brora’s challenging conditions—intrusive stock fences, unpredictable turf, severe slopes—made for a frustrating round. While some cherish its ramshackle charm, for me it was a test of patience more than of skill.
Day Three: Tain – Old Tom’s Northern Jewel
Historic Tain Golf Club comes framed by the gentle sweep of the Dornoch Firth, just 40 minutes north of Inverness. Designed in 1890 by Old Tom Morris, the course retains many original features and delivers a blend of links and heathland character. The routing begins gently but comes to life on the inward nine, especially the 11th hole “Alps” and the iconic 17th “Black Bridge”—one of Morris’s greatest par threes with a fairway-crossing river adding drama.
Course conditions were mixed: early holes suffered from wear, but the key stretches shone with variety and challenge. Evolving weather brought light winds and a sense of tranquility unique to this region, occasionally underlined by the roar of RAF jets from Lossiemouth overhead. Tain is high on local hospitality, big on history, and offers just enough golf drama to be a worthy Old Tom pilgrimage.
Day Four and Five: Royal Dornoch – The Crown Jewel
Playing Royal Dornoch is the golf trip’s high note—a spellbinding masterpiece regularly ranking among the best in the world. Its history runs deep: the current 18-hole design stems from Old Tom Morris and John Sutherland’s touch, with legends like Donald Ross and Tom Watson leaving their imprint on club lore.
Set across a sprawling links amphitheater with golden gorse and glinting firth waters, Dornoch’s holes all bring unique strategic charm—none more so than the signature “Foxy” (14th), a bunkerless par four demanding brilliance from tee to green. Sloping, elevated greens throughout challenge even the best short games. The course was in pristine condition and every shot was as inspiring as it was exacting.
A day at Dornoch is more than a round—it’s an immersion: history, camaraderie, and Highland hospitality interwoven in an unforgettable tapestry. For any golf lover, this is a pilgrimage to savor.
Day Six: Golspie – The Highlands’ Hidden Gem
Nestled between the Dornoch Firth and Ben Bhraggie, Golspie Golf Club offers a playful medley of links, heathland, and parkland holes—a remarkable diversity on a modest plot. The character imparted by James Braid’s 1920s redesign still thrives: undulating fairways, prime seaside holes, and some of the Highlands’ truest-rolling greens.
The round transitions from heath to true links near the shore, featuring memorable holes like the par-5 4th clinging to the beach and the back-to-back par threes at 16 and 17 that test both nerves and ball-striking. Golspie punches above its weight in both challenge and enjoyment; it’s a course sporting affection, authenticity, and a warmth echoed in its welcoming clubhouse.
Day Seven: Cabot Highlands – Modern Grandeur on the Moray Firth
The finale at Cabot Highlands (formerly Castle Stuart) delivered a stylish modern counterpoint to the ancient links. Designed by Hanse and Parsinen and opened in 2009, the course sprawls along the Moray Firth using elevation, dramatic mounding, and wide fairways to create both a spectacle and a welcoming layout for all handicaps.
Highlights abound: cliff-top tee shots, risk-reward options, and world-class short holes like the water-spanning 11th. Exceptional greens and clever routing ensure seclusion and visual drama on every swing. Clubhouse comfort and caddie service are exemplary—recalling hospitality as memorable as the golf itself. Plans for the Tom Doak-designed Old Petty course promise even more world-class golf soon.
Cabot Highlands is excellent, though purists may find its modernity less enchanting than the likes of Dornoch or Golspie. Still, its superb conditioning, beautiful setting, and accessibility make it an essential stop on any Highland golf trip.
Conclusion
The Highland experience is truly unforgettable. Royal Dornoch stands out and is a sensational course that should be on everyone’s bucket list; Tom Watson himself described it as a “natural masterpiece.” Beyond such a well-known course lie hidden gems such as Golspie and Fortrose that make for a really complete Scottish golfing experience.
Scotland’s golf regions each have their stars—Fife and St Andrews, East Lothian around Gullane, Ayrshire with Prestwick and Turnberry, and finally the Highlands, anchored by Royal Dornoch. A golfing trip through each area could easily take two delightful weeks.
Dining Highlights
Dornoch Castle Hotel – The Vault
I managed to book The Vault, a wonderful private dining area housed in the former dungeon of the castle. It was the perfect setting to conduct our usual end-of-season awards ceremony. Although Ben H, who normally runs this tradition, missed the trip this year, we celebrated with multiple toasts in his honor. The Vault seats up to approximately 10 people. The service was excellent, and the food was superb: starting with a charcuterie board, followed by steak with vegetables, and finishing with a very nice dessert.
Highland Spice, Dornoch
Skeptical about non-city curry houses, I was pleasantly surprised by a hearty chicken tikka and fresh naan offered at reasonable prices.
Luigi’s, Dornoch
This cozy Italian restaurant impressed with a perfectly creamy burrata starter and a halibut main course that reflected a kitchen of high standards. Not cheap, but worth it for quality food and a good wine list.
Marine Hotel, Brora
Located just steps from the golf course, we dined here after a windswept round. The maître d’, a South African by way of Scotland, helped us navigate the menu. My ribeye steak was excellent, and the service matched the food. I would thoroughly recommend this hotel. Although I didn’t see the rooms, I expect them to match the high standard of the dining experience.
Nairn Golf Club
Set overlooking the 1st and 18th holes of the golf course, the club offers pleasant dining with quite good food. However, the service level could have been improved significantly.
Royal Dornoch Golf Club Clubhouse Dining
Offers informal dining with spectacular views overlooking the 1st Tee of the Championship Course and the Dornoch Firth. Their menu emphasizes locally sourced, freshly prepared dishes celebrating the Highland larder. Service could be better.
Trip Organization & Practical Details
VisitScotland has a helpful website that provides lots of useful information on the area, places to stay, and things to do. In fact, the history of the Highlands is pretty interesting, as events in the 18th century had global ramifications which influence us today. Within Scotland, the Clan system collapsed and the region saw the imposition of what is called “the clearances”—genocide in another way—after the Battle of Culloden in April 1746 ended the Jacobite rebellion. The House of Hanover—the current King’s family—was restored. Accommodation
We stayed in self-catering apartments at The Royal Dornoch Hotel. Amy, who was terrific, arranged most of the golf and accommodation for our group.
Each apartment comprised two bedrooms—one with an ensuite—and a large, open-plan kitchen, dining, and lounge area. They were very well appointed and equipped with modern appliances, including a washer-dryer, cooker, hob, fridge, and freezer. The generous living spaces were perfect for relaxing after a day on the links.
Booking through the Royal Dornoch Hotel was hassle-free, thanks to the cheerful and efficient staff who also reserved our tee times—a huge help.
While the apartments were excellent, the main hotel building itself showed signs of wear: chipped paint, tired wallpaper, and indifferent restaurant service somewhat detracted from the overall experience. For comfort and peace of mind on a golf trip, I would recommend choosing these apartments over the main hotel accommodations.The main hotel felt dated, with tired decor and average restaurant service, but the apartments were excellent.
Transport
Amy at the Royal Dornoch Hotel provided me with the contact details for David Purvis, and I would highly recommend his services.
David proved to be an incredibly reliable driver with excellent local knowledge. Always punctual, professional, and easy to communicate with, he made getting to and from the various courses and dining spots simple and stress-free.
Whether you're coordinating group travel, airport transfers, or day trips across the Highlands, David is a great choice for anyone visiting the area and wanting dependable, friendly transport services from a true local expert.
Planning Tools
Highland Golf was an outstanding resource describing nearly 30 courses.
Slight Detours
For a fun morning or afternoon excursion, it’s possible to take a very small ferry from Nigg across to Cromarty. The ferry is tiny, so I would strongly advise not taking your car if it is an SUV or large vehicle, as you will have to reverse your vehicle off the ferry upon arrival.
Cromarty itself is a delightful little town with a charming array of restaurants, galleries, and shops. One highlight is Soutar Creek, which was closed when we visited but is reputedly well worth a visit. The harbor area is picturesque, and a very good coffee shop right at the waterfront provides a pleasant spot to relax and watch the boats.
If you find yourself in the Tain area, I recommend a visit to Tain Pottery, which produces absolutely beautiful pottery, showcasing local craftsmanship. Additionally, the nearby Glenmorangie Distillery offers fascinating tours. We enjoyed a very nice afternoon there—it’s a perfect way to experience one of Scotland’s famous whisky houses close to the golfing action.