Highland Fling: Golfing Adventure in Scotland – July 2025
Eight friends, all connected through our shared passion for golf and (mostly) members of Winged Foot Golf Club, traveled to the breathtaking Highlands of Scotland. This trip was the latest in a series of annual excursions, each destination offering its own unique charm and challenging courses: from my backyard of East Lothian’s “Golf Coast,” to the golf heritage of the Kingdom of Fife, and more recently the coastal beauty of Ayrshire in 2024, our travels have been filled with unforgettable experiences.
In fact, reflecting on our previous trips, we have played an impressive range of courses, ranked amongst Scotland’s best including the following:
While preferences may vary of course, I personally find it curious how Dumbarnie, Dundonald, and Fidra rank so highly while Dunbar, Luffness, Renaissance and The Jubilee seem so underrated.
For our trip in July 2025, we ventured northwards, to tackle some of Scotland's most revered golf courses including iconic names like Royal Dornoch and (the) Nairn. Our journey would embrace the stunning landscapes and rich history of the counties of Sutherland, Ross and Cromarty, Inverness, and Nairn.
“Dornoch” in fact in Gaelic means “pebbly place”—not Pebble Beach—but apparently based on hand-sized stones that might have been used as weapons. The Castle and Cathedral were built in the 13th century. The town comprises some 1,500 people, and with the golf course so prominent and being a key point on the (North Coast 500) route, it’s perhaps no surprise that tourism is the largest business in the area.
The Dornoch area holds special memories for me as I recall family vacations spent camping on Embo beach during my childhood. Incredibly, the hotel/restaurant "Grannies Healan’ Hame” is still there!
VisitScotland has a helpful website that provides lots of useful information on the area, places to stay, and things to do. In fact, the history of the Highlands is pretty interesting, as events in the 18th century had global ramifications which influence us today. Within Scotland, the Clan system collapsed and the region saw the imposition of what is called “the clearances”—genocide in another way—after the Battle of Culloden in April 1746 ended the Jacobite rebellion. The House of Hanover—the current King’s family—was restored.
The area is noteworthy also as the then Duke of Sutherland (Sutherland) initiated mass deportations by clearing the lands of farmers to be replaced by more profitable sheep. Many Scots emigrated from the mid-18th century to The States and Canada, as well as South America, Australia, and New Zealand—and their influence in the development of these countries has been impressive. In addition, the stage was set for the extension of British influence and the creation of the Empire, as French support for the Jacobite Charles Edward Stuart was curtailed. Culloden was also the last battle on British soil. The end of the fighting also encouraged the Scottish Enlightenment and the amazing outpouring of scientific and economic thinking and discovery. There’s a terrific book by Arthur Herman which details some of the impacts on modern society stemming from some amazing Scottish people from this period.
Ok, those days are over now and in the past they must remain—so what about this trip?
The Journey North: My journey north began after The Scottish Open at Renaissance—where last year’s winner was Scotland’s own Bob McIntyre. A very popular winner, as you might imagine, who later made a significant contribution to the Ryder Cup win in Italy. This year, it was the relatively unknown Chris Gutterup who came out ahead of Rory McIlroy. Gutterup shot an incredible 61 in round two; he would finish third in The Open at Port Rush the following week.
More importantly, however, I left right after celebrating my twin granddaughters Maisie and Reagan’s second birthday party. There can be surely no better way to prepare for a golf trip than loading up on kids’ party food and being in the petri dish atmosphere with all those little guys running around with coughs and runny noses. All that gym work seen on “Full Swing” seems so overrated!
The 200-mile drive to Dornoch is superb. The route takes you across the (relatively new) majestic Forth Bridge and reveals Scotland's natural beauty through charming towns and the breathtaking vistas of the Spey Valley. From Edinburgh, it’s roughly 100 miles to where the Highlands begin, just after Pitlochry. A further 50 miles or so and you arrive in the Cairngorms, Scotland’s ski area, with places like Aviemore providing more marvelous scenic aspects to the trip.
The approach to Dornoch is particularly striking; you travel over three bridges—over the Moray Firth, next the Cromarty Firth, and finally the Dornoch Firth. I was very fortunate in that both the sun and the tides were out, highlighting the beauty of this part of the Scottish coastline.
You can fly into Inverness from London or the Continent or Dublin, but there is something awfully nice about that drive up through central Scotland. If you have the time, I might suggest it’s a pretty good way to get acclimatised to the country.
Golf Courses Played (and Rankings):
Royal Dornoch (4)
Cabot Highlands (8)
Nairn (20)
Brora (28)
Golspie (63)
Fortrose & Rosemarkie (70)
Tain (82)
Day One: Fortrose & Rosemarkie – Classic Start on the Chanonry Peninsula
Fortrose & Rosemarkie Golf Club
Our trip kicked off with a 36-hole marathon for four of us, starting at Fortrose & Rosemarkie Golf Club, located on the slender Chanonry Peninsula reaching into the Moray Firth. The club secretary, Mike MacDonald, greeted us warmly, sharing his deep family heritage with the club and his impressive +4 handicap. Many members, including Mike, caddie for guests — a delightful local touch rarely seen outside Scotland.
Fortrose & Rosemarkie is remarkable as the 15th oldest recorded golf club in the world, with documented golf played on its links since 1702. The club itself was founded in 1888, and the course evolved, extending to 18 holes by 1924. The early game on these lands was informal—originally two holes cut by the Kennedy family in the late 19th century near where the clubhouse now stands, with visiting officers rowing across from Fort George to play. You get a nice view of the two peninsulas from Cabot Highlands.
By 1932, the legendary James Braid was invited to redesign the course, laying the foundations of the current layout. The club has endured through two World Wars, during which play was suspended and the clubhouse repurposed, but its character remains authentic and vibrant.
Located only 20 minutes from Inverness, the course enjoys stunning views across the Moray Firth opposite Fort George. The links terrain is classic: narrow fairways protected by abundant gorse, small undulating greens, and strategic pot bunkers at every turn. Although it is a relatively short par 71 measuring 6,085 yards, the course tests every aspect of a golfer’s game, especially with the ever-present Scottish crosswinds swirling over the peninsula.
The first hole, a straightforward par four with the water on your left, eases one in gently. Beach rock, trucked in after past flooding, attests to the course’s vulnerability to nature. We were blessed with calm, sunny conditions—making it tricky to judge how daunting the relentless winds can be. On windy days, Mike told us some par threes might require anything from a long iron to a driver.
The narrow fairways and compact greens create true demands for accuracy. Most greens are subtle and flat but expect a hefty slope here and there. The fourth requires a thoughtful, three-shot approach—you need both accuracy off the tee and smart placement to set up a small, protected green. The sixth hole runs along the left edge of the peninsula, delivering sweeping westward views. The proximity of some greens and tees (nowhere more so than the seventh) is a testament to the old-world links design, where space is at a premium.
Weather, as ever in Scotland, puts on a show: in our case warm and windless at the outset but quickly shrouded in coastal haze before clearing again by the 14th. The back nine played a touch shorter, with holes like nine, ten, twelve, and thirteen requiring finely judged hybrids or long irons—ambitious three-woods risked trouble. Seventeen is a stern par three with a tiny landing zone leading to a straightforward pitch—if you find the spot. The closing hole, 211 yards from the whites, can call for anything from iron to driver, depending on the wind.
Other highlights are the 3rd through 6th holes, famed not only for their golfing challenge but also as prime dolphin-watching spots — the local pods often dancing in the waters of the Firth as you play.
The course is celebrated for its fun and engaging nature, ranked in the Top 30 “Fun Golf Courses” in Great Britain and Ireland, and recently honored as Scotland’s Best Golf Course/Venue in the Scottish Golf Tourism Awards (2024).
The clubhouse provides a welcoming atmosphere, with charming facilities and a strong sense of community. The course conditions on the day of our play were excellent: springy fairways and well-maintained greens.
All told, Fortrose & Rosemarkie is a delight. It rewards accuracy, offers a fair challenge, and—crucially—makes it possible to score well. I signed for three birdies and a 74, convinced I’d have threatened 70 with just a little more course knowledge. Conditions the day we played were excellent: fairways springy and true, greens in superb shape. Fore-caddying from Mike was invaluable—a model of the service and companionship that elevates Scottish golf.
In short, an ideal start to the trip: a well-conditioned, characterful links with plenty of charm and a distinct feel. Highly recommended for anyone piecing together a Highland itinerary.
Day One (cont'd): Nairn – Championship Links with Historic Depth
After lunch at Fortrose, we joined the rest of the group at Nairn, affectionately known as “The Nairn.” Just 15 minutes from Inverness, it is steeped in history, with championship golf played here for over 130 years.
Founded in 1887 by Robert B. Finlay, the course has been shaped by legendary architects including Old Tom Morris, James Braid, and Ben Sayers. Redesigned by Morris in 1890, Nairn features some of the best seaside holes in Scotland and is known for its exceptional greens and classic out-and-back links layout. The course has played host to major tournaments such as the Walker Cup, Curtis Cup, Amateur Championship, and Women’s Amateur Championship, confirming its place among Scotland’s elite.
Nairn’s layout makes full use of its Moray Firth setting. The first seven holes cling tightly to the coastline, offering spectacular views but also posing serious challenges when winds rise. Every hole showcases either the Moray Firth or the Black Isle as a constant and dramatic backdrop.
From the tee, many fairways appear deceptively narrow due to mature gorse and subtle elevation changes, creating an optical illusion that challenges confidence and accuracy. The fairways here are among the most undulating we encountered on the trip. The green complexes are among the most demanding in the Highlands—full of undulations, run-offs, and cleverly concealed bunkers. Precision and touch are required on almost every approach.
The club maintains a sense of tradition while providing excellent facilities: a stylish clubhouse with dining overlooking the 18th, a pro shop, extensive practice areas, and a full nine-hole course—the Cameron Course—for warm-up or casual play. The pro shop is a bit limited, and is missing out on revenues by closing so early.
Notable Holes & Playing Highlights. 3rd Hole: A par four that hugs the coast before doglegging to a raised, well-defended green—the fairway looks tight, with bunkers and natural mounding playing tricks on your depth perception. Hole 9 – "Icehouse": This par four draws you toward the historic ice house where local fishermen once stored their catch, providing a tangible link to the area’s maritime heritage. 13th Hole – "Crown": An outstanding challenge off the tee, this hole requires an accurate, lengthy drive and a precise shot to an elevated, undulating green. It's both visually superb and tactically demanding. 14th Hole – "Kopjes": perhaps the signature par three, this hole plays from the highest point on the course to a green fronted by bunkers, with expansive views of the Moray Firth as your backdrop. The elevation change and crosswinds make club selection tricky—a par here is a real achievement.15th Hole – "Sutors": Another standout par three returning toward the coast, contrasting beautifully with the previous hole’s inland orientation.
Nairn Golf Club is an authentic Championship links, delivering challenge, beauty, and history in equal measure. The undulations of both fairways and greens set it apart from many Highland courses, demanding creativity and accuracy throughout the round. From the deceptive looks off the tee to iconic holes like "Icehouse" the course provides a first-class experience. Even in friendly weather, the layout offered memorable and rewarding golf—an absolute treat, and a must-play for anyone venturing to the North of Scotland
Day Two: Brora – Coastal Tradition with Unique Quirks
Brora Golf Club Our second day took us to Brora. Brora, which means "the bridge over the river" in Norse, belongs to a sleepy village of around 1,200 people that was once the thriving industrial capital of the Highlands. The town hosted the most northerly coal mine in the UK, beginning operations as early as 1529. Salt production from local seawater was crucial for preserving salmon caught in the nearby River and Loch Brora, supporting exports as early as the 17th century. The village also earned the nickname "Electric City," being the first place in Scotland to have electricity.
Beyond golf, local attractions include The Clynelish Distillery, established in 1967, and Capaldi’s ice cream factory, founded in 1932. The area also offers stunning views of Kintradwell Bay.
The course itself dates back to 1891, with an important redesign by James Braid in 1924. According to the Club’s website: “Given 194 acres of Scottish links land to work on, what in 1923 was entitled 'Braid's Plan' is hardly altered. Here, visitors enjoy a mixture of bent grass, beach sand, burn water, and gorse in glorious yellow May bloom. There is even a railway which comes into play from the tenth tee. With the exception of the short sixth, the outward nine holes follow the contour of Kintradwell Bay in the foreground, with a backdrop of the Sutherland foothills from Ben Bhraggie to the west, away to the Ord of Caithness in the north-east. The inward nine follow the fence line of bordering croft land, with out of bounds to concentrate the mind. Of the two short holes, the delightful 13th, Snake, winds back towards the sea, whilst the 18th contains all the concerns of protecting a score against a bunkered green a two hundred yard carry away and under the scrutiny of the clubhouse windows.”
Golf at Brora comes with some memorable challenges. For example, if your ball lands in a pile of cow dung, Rule 25.1b allows you relief—so it’s "not tough sh1t." Another quirky aspect is the low-voltage electric fencing surrounding the greens, used to keep sheep and cows away!
At just under 6,200 yards, the course is relatively short but features hidden greens, occasional burns, and the constant Highland wind which can make navigation tricky. The first hole sets the tone, opening with a straightforward tee shot but demanding a very sloping green that challenges from the start.
The day of our visit brought classic Scottish weather: strong winds battering the front nine, and biting cold that tested both patience and shot-making ability. Brora follows a traditional out-and-back links routing, exposing every shot to the elements. Course conditions were disappointing; fairways appeared patchy and poorly maintained, no doubt affected by the many sheep grazing on the grounds—a quaint feature perhaps, but one that detracts from playability. Each green is surrounded by the low-voltage electric fence, a distinctly Scottish though somewhat intrusive feature. While novel, the fences can be distracting.
Playing the course demands local knowledge, as many tees and approaches offer blind or ambiguous targets. The greens are severely sloped, occasionally borderline unplayable, requiring extreme accuracy just to keep the ball rolling on the surface. The clubhouse itself offers incredible views, excellent food, and friendly service, rounding out the overall golfing experience.
Overall Impressions
Brora’s rugged setting and traditional links ambiance may appeal to some, but for me, the overall experience was underwhelming. The difficulty in reading the course, poor fairway quality, persistent sheep hazards, and severe greens combined to make it more frustrating than fun.
While many players embrace Brora’s rough-and-ready charm and exciting quirks, my time there felt disappointing, and I would be hesitant to return. For those seeking a true Highland golf adventure, Brora’s eccentricities are legendary, but its appeal depends heavily on one’s taste for rustic links golf.
Day Three: Tain – Old Tom Morris’s Northern Jewel
Tain Golf Club, located in the Royal Burgh of Tain, Ross-shire, Scotland, is an historic course designed by the legendary Old Tom Morris in 1890. Known as "Old Tom Morris's Northern Jewel," it stands out for preserving many of the original features from Morris's original layout, with five of his holes still intact on each nine.
Situated just 40 minutes north of Inverness, Tain enjoys favorable year-round playing conditions thanks to its sheltered location on the Dornoch Firth. Though not a true links course in the purest sense, Tain is often described as a hybrid between links and heathland, offering a natural and unforced feel that captures the wild charm of Highland golf.
While the opening stretch of holes lacks some definition, and a few showed signs of wear, the course as a whole was in improved condition compared to Brora. The first hole offers a relatively gentle introduction, easing players into the round, though some sections could benefit from more regular maintenance. The ninth hole, in particular, was noticeably rough in parts.
We were fortunate to play in unusually pleasant weather—light winds and warmth in the mid-70s (°F). Highlights began to emerge as we ventured further into the course, none more so than the standout 11th hole, appropriately named "Alps." It requires a pinpoint drive followed by a blind shot over three large mounds guarding the green. The hole points directly toward the ocean, and in wilder weather, its test would surely intensifyThe back nine is the stronger and more interesting half of the layout, with improved flow and clearer hole definition. Much like at Golspie, Tain features back-to-back par threes—an unusual trait but one that adds variety and strategic complexity to the round. Hole 16, influenced by tidal movement, brings the lapping water dangerously close to the green—a uniquely Highland hazard.
Perhaps the most memorable hole is 17 – "Black Bridge", widely acclaimed as one of Old Tom Morris’s finest par 3s. This hole is as visually stunning as it is tactically demanding, playing over a snaking river that crosses the fairway twice before edging along the green’s right side. The combination of natural danger and the need for a well-controlled shot secures its place among Morris's top 18-designed holes. It embodies Morris’s genius in integrating landscape with strategy, and it adds real excitement to the closing stretch.
Adding to the uniqueness of the round is the occasional sound—and sometimes the sight—of RAF jets passing overhead from nearby Lossiemouth. It's an unexpected contrast to the otherwise sleepy Highland atmosphere and makes for a memorable experience.
Overall Impressions
Tain offers plenty of history, a few terrific holes, and glorious Highland surroundings. While some conditioning issues persist and parts of the course lack definition, the warm local hospitality, scenic setting, and standout moments like “Black Bridge” make it a worthy stop for those tracing Old Tom Morris’s legacy in the Highlands.
Day Four: Royal Dornoch – Iconic Links Masterpiece
What a treat it was to play Royal Dornoch! This course is not just one of Scotland’s most acclaimed, but a personal favorite—easily ranking in my top three or five courses anywhere in the world. The setting is spectacular, with the celebrated opening hole unfolding in front of the classic clubhouse, iconic flags fluttering, and anticipation building for the rest of the round.
Golf at Dornoch can be traced back to 1616, although the club itself was officially founded in 1877. Initially laid out as a nine-hole course, it was significantly extended in 1886 when Old Tom Morris was invited north from St Andrews to imprint his design on the links. Morris, a four-time Open winner and golf pioneer, declared famously, “there canna be better for gowf.” His extension created an 18-hole layout measuring just over 5,285 yards, set on the stunning common good land of Dornoch.
John Sutherland, a 19-year-old secretary appointed in 1883, was fundamental to the club’s development. A scratch golfer and course designer, Sutherland championed the course’s progress for decades and remains a revered figure—the 12th hole is named in his honor. Another local legend, Donald Ross, cut his teeth at Dornoch before emigrating to the U.S. to become one of golf’s greatest architects. You can find out more about the history of golf at the Club Here. Tom Watson and Ben Crenshaw are credited with increasing overseas, especially US interest in the course in the 1980’s. Watson, generally a revered golfer in Scotland described the course as a “natural beauty”.
The course is laid out across a vast amphitheater of natural tiered links land along the north shore of the Dornoch Firth. It is framed by windswept sandy beaches, shimmering waters, and gorse-clad hillsides that turn golden in the spring. Royal Dornoch has evolved over the years, including significant changes to the 7th and 8th holes designed to future-proof the course, yet it retains its timeless character.
Known for a demanding but fair test of golfing skill, the course rewards accuracy and creativity. The fairways offer generous landing areas but missing right can prove costly. The real challenge lies in the approach shots—greens are firm and fiercely guarded, best attacked with low bump-and-run shots or putters from short range. This nuance of shot-making cedes ground from wedge play to cunning strategy.
I thought the course was in fantastic shape throughout—firm fairways, true greens, and a beautifully tended links landscape. Each hole felt honest—whether you played well or poorly, the design rewarded good decisions without feeling unfair or punitive. There’s not a single “weak” hole. Every hole feels distinct, offering a variety of demands and stunning natural beauty. From the very start, the round sets a memorable tone, inviting players into the rhythm of world-class links golf. A stand-out early test, hole 3, with its traps along the right, offers both challenge and the first sweeping vistas that showcase Dornoch’s natural beauty. The short holes—particularly the sixth—are demanding, with elevated greens, narrow approach windows, and cleverly guarded fronts. A left-to-right slope on the sixth green means anything missing on the right runs into deep trouble. The new design on the seventh presents a long, visually stunning challenge, especially daunting into a Highland wind.
Holes 10 and 11 transition you back toward the heart of Dornoch, while the twelfth—a dogleg par five—offers more generosity than first appears and a real birdie opportunity. A delightfully tough short par three, 13 green is encircled by banks on three sides, rewarding only the most accurate tee shots. The 14th ("Foxy"), often considered Dornoch’s signature, is a long, bunkerless par four with five “fingers” of rough jutting into the fairway. It demands excellence from tee to an elevated green framed by classic run-offs, epitomizing links golf’s blend of subtlety and difficulty. Sixteen punishes any drive straying long and left—balls end up in a quarry, out of bounds. Seventeen gives players a strategy conundrum: lay up or go for the riskier, more direct line for a look at birdie, with an elevated green adding nuance. A formidable par four to conclude, with a tough approach—rendering a four hard-won and a birdie a true achievement on your final day.
The closing holes maintain intensity, with risk-reward options that test decision-making under pressure.
The clubhouse carries a warm Highland hospitality and is due a substantial upgrade soon. Currently, its bar and pro shop provide a cozy atmosphere, but a new facility is promised to better match the world-class nature of the course itself.
Friends from Muirfield and Luffness joined us for two-ball foursomes and afternoon rounds, interspersed by lawn bowls and excellent company. Wine and cheese appeared magically, rounding out a day where golf flows seamlessly into camaraderie.
Summary & Overall Impression
Royal Dornoch sparkles as a harmonious blend of design, immaculate conditioning, and unspoiled Highland setting. It is a must-visit for any serious golfer. Each hole offers a unique challenge and joy, and the course strikes a perfect balance between fairness and formidable test. Combined with the warm local hospitality and the pleasures of post-round socializing, Royal Dornoch delivers not just a round of golf—but a deeply memorable experience to savor.
Day Six: Golspie – Highland Variety with Authentic Charm
Day six brought us to Golspie Golf Club, one of the Highlands’ best-kept secrets. Founded in 1889, Golspie boasts a long and colourful history, growing from the local Sutherland Golfing Society’s early activities. Golf was played on these links before the club’s foundation—dating back to 1878—with the original nine-hole course opening in the 1890s and extended to 18 holes by 1905.
The renowned architect and golfer James Braid was invited in the 1920s to redesign significant portions of the course. His alterations, completed by 1927, remain the foundation of Golspie’s character today. Golspie is somewhat unique compared to typical Scottish links courses. Its layout combines a mixture of classic links, heathland, and parkland holes on a relatively compact 6,021-yard, par-70 course. This mixture offers diverse challenges and visually stunning surroundings, including sweeping views of the Dornoch Firth on one side and the rugged Ben Bhraggie hills on the other.
The course begins over heathland before transitioning to authentic links land adjacent to the coastline. Undulating fairways, deep bunkers, and challenging greens test every aspect of your game. I thought there were a number of really good holes. Hole 4 “Gully” is a par five skirting the edge of the beach, made memorable by both its beauty and tactical swale before the green. It’s astonishing to stand here and imagine the fairway submerged when storms breach the dunes—weather and the sea are forever co-authors of Scottish golf. The par 3 6th hole three nestles its green below gorse-clad dunes. Hole 14 (“Gully”) – A par five skirting the beach edge, notable for its tactical swale in front of the green and spectacular coastal views. Holes 16 and 17 – Back-to-back par threes, with the 16th (“Cairngorms”) requiring a precise tee shot to a two-tiered green, making club selection and shot execution critical. Hole 18 (“Drumbrae”) – A challenging finishing par four featuring a blind approach over a fairway mound, which would surely have delighted Old Tom Morris’s eye for course quirks.
Despite its modest length, Golspie demands focus, precision, and strategic thinking, especially given the frequent Highland winds. It is widely praised for some of the best greens in the Highlands, offering true rolling surfaces that reward good putting. Golspie’s reputation as a hidden gem is well-earned. It's consistently ranked among Scotland’s top 100 courses and provides a wonderful blend of authenticity, challenge, and natural beauty. For many visiting the Highlands, Golspie stands out as a highlight of the trip and deserves a higher profile than it currently holds.
The clubhouse offers excellent Highland hospitality with stunning vistas over the Moray Firth, a warm welcome, and the facilities to match the quality of the course.
Day Seven: Cabot Highlands – Modern Links on a Grand Stage
Cabot Highlands (formerly Castle Stuart)
Our final round unfolded at Cabot Highlands, formerly known as Castle Stuart Golf Links, located just a short drive from Inverness. Set spectacularly along the Moray Firth, this course offers a beautiful blend of classic Scottish links tradition and modern design innovation.
Opened in 2009 and designed by Mark Parsinen and Gil Hanse, Cabot Highlands quickly established itself as one of the finest golf clubs in the Scottish Highlands. The 18-hole, par-72 layout stretches over 6,592 yards and features wide fairways, dramatic undulations, and extraordinary greens bordered by native fescue, broom, gorse, and heather.
The course is renowned not only for its magnificent coastal setting but also for its accessibility. Unlike some more punishing Highland links, Cabot Highlands offers a fair yet challenging test suitable for a range of handicaps. It’s a perfect complement to an itinerary filled with more traditional links courses; some might consider it more a tourist course than the full links experience.
Playing from the 6,590-yard white tees, our group (handicaps near 12) found several par fours surprisingly difficult—especially those running uphill north of 430 yards, occasionally against the prevailing wind. The course’s routing ensures a sense of seclusion, with clever mounding and natural waste bunkers preventing you from seeing upcoming holes until close to finishing each. The opening two holes provided gentle introductions along the water; the 2nd green is small and well-protected, while the 3rd’s risk-reward options stood out. Hole 4, a photogenic par three, tempts players to be short of the pin lest they face trouble beyond. Several tee shots—such as on the par-4 1st and 10th—start from elevated cliff-side tees requiring thrilling drives down to fairways below. The 6th hole, a long par-five guarded by strategically placed bunkers, is a standout on the front nine.
The halfway house is infamous for its Scottish pies—my favorite, the macaroni pie, alongside an excellent traditional meat and potato pie. The back nine keeps raising the bar: the 10th presents a dramatic tee-shot drop. The par 3 11th hole is a world-class short hole over water, constantly challenging with the wind.
In fact, the round’s biggest test came around the 11th, when Highland rain paid a visit—mercifully, the wind was gentle and the weather quickly turned. Wide fairways encouraged aggressive lines, and the greens rolled true, ensuring an enjoyable experience despite the fleeting downpour. The 12th is a formidable long par five with show-stopping vistas. The elevated and testing par-3 17th challenges players late in the round with its cliff-top positioning and demanding carry. Finally, the 18th lets you hunt for a closing birdie as it tumbles down to the clubhouse, its green cleverly tucked and well-defended.
Cabot Highlands has hosted the Scottish Open multiple times, welcoming top players including Luke Donald and Phil Mickelson. The clubhouse is an art-deco gem with panoramic Highland views, excellent dining, and full locker room facilities. Service throughout was top-notch, in line with the reputation of the Cabot collection.Our caddie, Steven, was excellent; strategic, insightful, and full of local banter. The suggested caddie fee is £100 for a fourball, but his service more than justified a generous tip.
Looking ahead, the property will expand with the addition of Old Petty, a new Tom Doak-designed eighteen-hole walking-only course scheduled for preview play starting August 2025 and official opening in spring 2026. This new layout promises dramatic terrain and more authentic links character, further cementing Cabot Highlands' status as a premier Highland golf destination.
Reflections & Rankings
Cabot Highlands stands out as the Highlands’ modern flagship course—immaculately groomed, visually striking, and welcoming to players of varying levels. While it may not have the undulating ferocity of Royal Dornoch or the quirky charm of courses like Golspie and Nairn, it holds its own with excellent conditioning, thoughtful design, and breathtaking seaside landscapes. In my personal ranking, Cabot Highlands trails Royal Dornoch, Nairn, and Golspie in sheer links character but ranks well ahead of Brora and Tain. Nevertheless, the modern design and accessible playability make it a memorable stop for any Highland golf itinerary.
Dining Highlights
Dornoch Castle Hotel – The Vault
I managed to book The Vault, a wonderful private dining area housed in the former dungeon of the castle. It was the perfect setting to conduct our usual end-of-season awards ceremony. Although Ben H, who normally runs this tradition, missed the trip this year, we celebrated with multiple toasts in his honor. The Vault seats up to approximately 10 people. The service was excellent, and the food was superb: starting with a charcuterie board, followed by steak with vegetables, and finishing with a very nice dessert.
Highland Spice, Dornoch
Skeptical about non-city curry houses, I was pleasantly surprised by a hearty chicken tikka and fresh naan offered at reasonable prices.
Luigi’s, Dornoch
This cozy Italian restaurant impressed with a perfectly creamy burrata starter and a halibut main course that reflected a kitchen of high standards. Not cheap, but worth it for quality food and a good wine list.
Marine Hotel, Brora
Located just steps from the golf course, we dined here after a windswept round. The maître d’, a South African by way of Scotland, helped us navigate the menu. My ribeye steak was excellent, and the service matched the food. I would thoroughly recommend this hotel. Although I didn’t see the rooms, I expect them to match the high standard of the dining experience.
Nairn Golf Club
Set overlooking the 1st and 18th holes of the golf course, the club offers pleasant dining with quite good food. However, the service level could have been improved significantly.
Royal Dornoch Golf Club Clubhouse Dining
Offers informal dining with spectacular views overlooking the 1st Tee of the Championship Course and the Dornoch Firth. Their menu emphasizes locally sourced, freshly prepared dishes celebrating the Highland larder. Service could be better.
Conclusion: The Highland experience is truly unforgettable. Royal Dornoch stands out and is a sensational course that should be on everyone’s bucket list; Tom Watson himself described it as a “natural masterpiece.” Beyond such a well-known course lie hidden gems such as Golspie and Fortrose that make for a really complete Scottish golfing experience.
Scotland’s golf regions each have their stars—Fife and St Andrews, East Lothian around Gullane, Ayrshire with Prestwick and Turnberry, and finally the Highlands, anchored by Royal Dornoch. A golfing trip through each area could easily take two delightful weeks.
Trip Organization & Practical Details
Accommodation
We stayed in self-catering apartments at The Royal Dornoch Hotel. Amy, who was terrific, arranged most of the golf and accommodation for our group. Each apartment comprised two bedrooms—one with an ensuite—and a large, open-plan kitchen, dining, and lounge area. They were very well appointed and equipped with modern appliances, including a washer-dryer, cooker, hob, fridge, and freezer. The generous living spaces were perfect for relaxing after a day on the links.
Booking through the Royal Dornoch Hotel was hassle-free, thanks to the cheerful and efficient staff who also reserved our tee times—a huge help.
While the apartments were excellent, the main hotel building itself showed signs of wear: chipped paint, tired wallpaper, and indifferent restaurant service somewhat detracted from the overall experience. For comfort and peace of mind on a golf trip, I would recommend choosing these apartments over the main hotel accommodations.The main hotel felt dated, with tired decor and average restaurant service, but the apartments were excellent.
Transport
Amy at the Royal Dornoch Hotel provided me with the contact details for David Purvis, and I would highly recommend his service. David proved to be an incredibly reliable driver with excellent local knowledge. Always punctual, professional, and easy to communicate with, he made getting to and from the various courses and dining spots simple and stress-free. Whether you're coordinating group travel, airport transfers, or day trips across the Highlands, David is a great choice for anyone visiting the area and wanting dependable, friendly transport services from a true local expert.
Planning Tools
Highland Golf was an outstanding resource describing nearly 30 courses.
Slight Detours
For a fun morning or afternoon excursion, it’s possible to take a very small ferry from Nigg across to Cromarty. The ferry is tiny, so I would strongly advise not taking your car if it is an SUV or large vehicle, as you will have to reverse your vehicle off the ferry upon arrival.
Cromarty itself is a delightful little town with a charming array of restaurants, galleries, and shops. One highlight is Soutar Creek, which was closed when we visited but is reputedly well worth a visit. The harbor area is picturesque, and a very good coffee shop right at the waterfront provides a pleasant spot to relax and watch the boats.
If you find yourself in the Tain area, I recommend a visit to Tain Pottery, which produces absolutely beautiful pottery, showcasing local craftsmanship. Additionally, the nearby Glenmorangie Distillery offers fascinating tours. We enjoyed a very nice afternoon there—it’s a perfect way to experience one of Scotland’s famous whisky houses close to the golfing action.